If you’re a motorcycle person, you likely know the name Erik Buell. He was a motorcycle racer with an engineering degree that began working at Harley-Davidson in 1979. He started working with another company, British manufacturer Barton, to help them improve their motorcycles. He ultimately quit his job at H-D, then started making his own eponymous-named sport bikes that used Harley-Davidson motors. Lacking any type of sport bike in their catalog of touring bikes, Harley-Davidson bought a controlling interest in Buell and hired him back, putting him in charge of engineering and design of all Buell motorcycles.
Following the economic crisis of 2008–2009, H-D ceased production of Buell motorcycles. Buell kept his toes in the world of road racing by producing race bikes with remnants from his previous production bikes. In 2019, he partnered with French financiers via a successful Indiegogo crowdfunding campaign to form an electric vehicle company.
His new company name, Fuell, is making electric bicycles and electric motorcycles. While the motorcycle is still in development, the e-bike line is in production, and we got our hot little hands on one. There are three models of the new Flluid: The Flluid-1 is a Class 1 (20 mph) bike with an internally geared Shimano Nexus 5E rear hub. The Flluid-1S and Flluid-1E are Class 3 e-bikes (28 mph), the former having the same Shimano Nexus 5E hub, the latter is spec’d with an Enviolo CVT (continuously variable transmission) drivetrain.
THE BIKE
The aluminum frame is a normal, step-over-type design and is available in two sizes. It features a relatively relaxed, upright riding position, and it doesn’t scream “e-bike.” You can’t see the batteries, and the mid-drive motor is fairly small. The tubing is beefy, and with the voluminous Pirelli Cycl-e tires, it commands respect.
THE PARTS
The Suntour XC34 air fork up front makes for smoother riding with 120mm of travel. The drivetrain is a maintenance-free Gates carbon belt driving an Enviolo CVT, offering stepless gear changes.
“The power and 100 N/m of torque from the Bofeili motor are delivered powerfully but naturally; there are no surprises.”
The bike comes with integrated lighting, including a Roxim Z4E Pro LED headlight that is incredibly bright and a taillight/brake light. There’s also a horn so loud, you’ll scare others off their bicycles if you use it! There’s a built-in cafe lock to provide a little security when parked. Fuell has an optional chain lock (or you can buy one from another brand), the batteries are locked in place using a key, and there’s even an optional GPS tracker accessory.
THE MOTOR
This was our first time seeing a motor from Bofeili. It’s an exclusive for Fuell, and it has impressive specs. Unlike the oval shape of many mid-drives, like those from Yamaha or Shimano, this one is round like a TQ motor. It’s a beast, with 500-watt nominal output and 100 N/m of torque.
The battery, or rather batteries, is integrated into the frame and also removable. They each have their own charge port, and each offer 504 Wh of capacity. There’s one in
the top tube and one in the downtube. These batteries, plus the motor and sturdy build of the bike, make it quite heavy, weighing in at 79 pounds. Each battery weighs in at 6.6 pounds, so taking them both off for transportation will save you 13.2 pounds, which brings the bike’s weight down to around 66 lbs. That’s still a heavy bike and almost a pound over most e-bike-rated racks that normally limit the per-tray weight to 65 pounds.
The color display offers a wide variety of easy-to-read information, including battery capacity, speed, distance, assist level and walk mode. There’s a USB charging port if you want to plug in your phone.
WHO IT’S MADE FOR
The Flluid-1E is great for commuters, longer tourers and just as a city bike. It features a sturdy rack, and there are some great saddle bags, a basket and a trunk bag all made specifically for the bike.
THE RIDE
Weighing in at nearly 80 pounds, you definitely feel the weight of the bike when you first climb aboard, but once under power you no longer notice. The power and 100 N/m of torque from the Bofeili motor are delivered powerfully but naturally; there are no surprises.
Shifting the Enviolo CVT is not fully intuitive in that we would always downshift when we meant to upshift and vice versa. It’s a grip shifter, and upshifting is done by twisting the shifter forward. If you’re used to riding motorcycles, twisting the throttle back towards you is how you accelerate, so you’ll have to retrain that thought process when you first start riding. This setup isn’t exclusive to Fuell; all Enviolo systems are set up this way, save for the fully automatic one that we recently tested on The Ride Radiant Carbon (EBA, February 2022). We’ll still take manual over automatic.
On short rides and longer rides, the bike was very comfortable. The ergonomics are very well thought out. We might swap out the saddle, but we’d likely do that on most of the bikes we ride. The SR Suntour air fork, with 120mm of travel, smoothed the regular bumps in the road well. If your rides are really bumpy, there should be enough room to install a suspension seatpost, like a Thudbuster or Kinekt. The bars are nice and wide and flat, making the bike easy to control, though they’re wide enough to also make them too wide for total comfort when navigating dense urban streets. Seating position is slightly forward of neutral.
The Pirelli Cycl-e tires are some of our favorites. Not only do you get a cushy ride because of all the air volume, but between the tread pattern and the rubber compound, you get grip in cornering that is outstanding in all conditions. We actually had rain for once in sunny SoCal, and we took it for a ride in the wet. It still left us feeling confident in both the grip and the IP65 rating for the electrical components.
Fuell claims that with both batteries fully charged, you can ride up to 125 miles. Like all these manufacturer claims, this is under ideal conditions. In the real world, not staying in Eco mode, riding up hills, facing headwinds and just having fun, you’re likely to get 50–60 miles. That’s a pretty good total range that most riders won’t do all at once.
THE VERDICT
Overall, this is a very well-engineered bike that’s fun to ride. Ride quality and ergonomics are outstanding, the bike feels planted on any surface, and it is a great commuter that likes to easily go 20–24 mph.
The model we tested is the top of the line, with a $500 premium over the other two models. We’d absolutely skip over the Class 1 version and probably actually save the $500 and go for the Fllow-1S instead, because shifting is more intuitive for experienced riders and a bit more efficient.
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There are several schools of thought around ebike design these days. Some makers are trying to make them as similar to regular bicycles as possible. Others are exploring the outer limits of design given the needed inclusion of batteries, motors, electronics and so forth. And still others are seeing just how close they can push the definition of an electric “bicycle” before it becomes an electric motorcycle - weight, cost and complexity be damned.
FUELL is somewhat a member of those companies in the last category, and it should be no surprise that their new Flluid-1E ebike offering will eventually have an actual electric motorcycle counterpart, the Fllow, if things go as planned. To a long time motorcycle rider like myself, that’s definitely not surprising since the Flluid bicycles come from the mind of longtime maverick motorcycle designer Erik Buell - thus the two Ls in the naming nomenclature.
What was surprising was how much I loved riding the Flluid-1E while spending time with it recently, but it was not just any Flluid ebike. My review machine was actually a Flluid 1 “E,” the very first of the new crop of Flluid-1E production bikes to feature the innovative and effective Enviolo NuVinci rear hub that features infinite gear ratio selection between its minimum and maximum ratios. Indeed, it was Serial Number 00001. FUELL Fluid 1S models use a Shimano Nexus 5-Speed internally geared hub.
Looking at the Flluid-1E, it seems rather... conventional, which is a bit surprising, especially considering how radical Erik Buell’s motorcycles were. While many ebike startups feature odd frame shapes and novel if untested tech, the component list for the Flluid-1E features many fairly common bits that I see on many other higher-end ebikes: The as-mentioned Enviolo hub, silent Gates carbon belt drive, a 3.2-inch IPS color center-up LCD panel showing speed, power output and more, Tektro 180mm hydraulic disc brakes, and 48-Volt Samsung batteries, most all of which are off-the shelf tech.
Instead of using a Bafang or Bosch unit, motor power comes from a 500-watt Bofeili mid-drive motor that puts out 100nm of torque. The aluminum hardtail frame consists of two reliable triangles plus a Suntour XCR34 suspension fork up front with a plush 120mm of travel that can also be locked out. So far, it looks like... a bicycle. A burly bicycle, but clearly a thing you can pedal. It doesn’t fold up, use weird wheel sizes or transform into a unicycle.
More good stuff: The Roxim Z4E Pro LED headlight is incredibly bright and even features a high beam, and a bright LED taillight/brake light is under the seat or in my case, on the rear rack. There’s a very loud horn and the best rear-view mirror on a bicycle that I’ve ever used off the left bar end. Again, all very motorcycle-like. But, there’s also a built-in rear wheel lock like they use on bicycles everywhere in Japan and Europe, which is effective on the Flluid since it’s not really a bike a thief would easily carry away.
FUELL also included a very thick chain-link style cable lock, rear rack, metal fenders, a swank set of waterproof bag-style rear panniers, a rack top case and even a very cool branded helmet with an LED marker light in the back. Basically, it arrived as a deluxe commuter setup. The bags clicked on and off the rear rack using a simple key (smart!), but all three could not be used at once, unfortunately.
But it’s the overall design and detail choices, and how everything works together, that makes this ebike so special. Also, we can’t be remiss in mentioning the Flluid-1E is packing two batteries that fit flush into the frame, giving it tremendous range - but also a lot of weight. So how does it ride?
The ride really is the thing
With any bicycle, there is a bit of fettling that occurs to “fit” the bike to your body. After finding the correct seat height, I settled in for an initial ride and was immediately impressed with how comfortable the Flluid-1E is to ride, and I don’t mean “soft-seat cushy comfortable.” It felt like it had been sized and measured just for me. I specified a “large” frame size when talking with FUELL about a review bike, but nothing beyond that. This bike fit me like a glove, although it would be more accurate so say it fit me more like a motorcycle.
The handlebar is essentially flat instead of having the common “beach bar” bend I see so often now on ebikes. And the seat/pedal/bar triangle felt very motorcycle-like to me. Maybe it was a quirk of luck that it was so comfortable, but having ridden Buell motorcycles in the past, it seemed to echo that posture, just modified for a bicycle. As a larger rider (6-foot 1), I sometimes struggle with bikes that are a tick too small because they are trying to fit a wide cross section of humans. Not the case here. This is, so far, the most comfortable ebike I have personally ridden.
As noted, the Flluid-1E comes with two removable 500 Watt-hour batteries for a full kilowatt of juice on board. Interestingly, I had TWO dual-battery ebikes in for review at the same time, and they were very different styles and experiences. However, one common thread was how really, really convenient it is to have that second battery on board. The Flluid-1E is said to have over 100 miles of range and typically on an ebike, that’s if you’re doing a lot of the actual legwork yourself on pedal assist. I would just ride on one battery until it was at about 10%, then activate the other fully charged battery. It was like having two gas tanks on a car. Range anxiety? Zero. And for the record, thanks to the Enviolo hub, it was also easy to pedal the 1E sans assist - in the flat at least. I don’t think I’d like to tackle a steep hill without the motorized boost, but really, it could be done with that wide-ratio Enviolo hub. Slowly.
Also interesting: For as motorcycle-ish as the Flluid-1E feels, it’s actually one of the most bicycle-like ebikes I’ve reviewed, as it does not have a throttle. The assist only happens while pedaling, which you’d think would be a disappointment, but coupled with the idiot-proof Enviolo rear hub, the smooth power output and the great fit and feel while riding, I happily pedaled it everywhere.
On this model and the Flluid-1S, assist continues up to a Class III 28mph limit. The $4,999 Flluid-1 tops out at a Class I 20mph. FUELL’s intention is that the Flluid-1 meets the legal definition of a ‘bicycle’ in places that pay attention to such matters (the EU) and can be legally ridden on bike paths and other areas that may be legally inaccessible to higher speed Class III eBikes. Confused? Well, it is confusing, even to those of us paying attention.
But in getting to those speeds, there’s enough power added in that pedal effort is as light or as heavy as you desire by way of the six power levels available (including zero assist, but all systems on). Even with the heavy weight (about 80 pounds) of the bike, it was again surprisingly easy to pedal with no assist or with all electrical systems off (or dead batteries) since the rear hub is fully mechanical and uses a grip-rotation shifter.
I thought I would miss the throttle (my personal ebike has one), but the Fluid-1E motor engagement and power output is silky smooth no matter the power setting, and while freewheeling on a throttle is fun, I personally feel more in control of a bicycle if I’m pedaling it. Crazy, I know, but that’s the truth, and the Flluid-1E just has the whole assist engagement/gearing puzzle figured out. Yes, the two batteries make the Flluid heavy - almost 80 pounds - but in pedaling, even uphill, the powerful 500-watt mid-motor and fully variable rear hub gearing makes those ascents easy and fast. Plus, the Fluid-1E feels so incredibly solid while riding, with no frame flex and perfectly neutral steering - very much like a well-sorted sport motorcycle feels. When flying down a long downhill at well over 30mph, the Flluid tracks straight and true, and inspires confidence.
And when Battery No. 1 tails out, just push the button on battery No. 2 and it’s like you’ve got a whole new lease on life. The two-battery solution is something I think we’ll see more of in the future. I put in several 50+ miles ride on the Flluid and barely tipped into the second cell each time, even with the panniers loaded up with camera gear, food and whatnot.
Conclusion
It would be easy to say the $5,495 FUELL Flluid-1E rates a demerit for not having a throttle for pedal-free operation, but in truth, I never missed it. I have said repeatedly in reviews that consumers should think of electrified bicycles as low-powered motorcycles, especially when they have a throttle of some sort (and riders should gear up appropriately) and there is no shortage of throttle-optioned choices out there. But the real value of a bicycle that is packing an electric motor is that as a bicycle, its range and usefulness is greatly expanded. The FUELL Flluid-1E, kitted with a rack, pannier bags and fenders, was a reliable and swift commuting option, and since I was lucky enough to receive it during a stretch of fair Oregon weather, I was able to leave my car (and motorcycles) at home for both short trips and quite a few longer ones.
I love bicycles and motorcycles, and ebikes continue to be an intriguing blend of the two modalities. Some have a bit more motorbike in their Venn diagram while others hew more closely to the purity and simplicity of a bicycle. The FUELL Flluid-1E is a rare example of an ebike that deftly and cleanly combines the bigger, more solid presence and spirit of a motorcycle with the utility, ease and joy of a bicycle. I tip my helmet to Erik Buell and his team for creating what is, so far, the best ebike I’ve ridden to date.
]]>For many active Motorcyclist’s it may seem a bit crazy to think that the tires on their Motorcycle could be considered too old or “dried up”. A phrase uttered throughout our shop, “I just replaced that tire last year” is heard every spring as bikes emerge from winter storage. However, there are still a considerable number of bikes that for one reason or another lay dormant, remaining in storage or suffering infrequent use. As riding season, after riding season passes by, the performance of the tires on those bikes could be significantly reduced. Here is what you need to know about old or aging motorcycle tires.
Do motorcycle tires have an expiration date?
To put it simply, no. However, they do have a date code. The date code is a 4-digit number molded into the side of the tire, it is used to determine the week and year the tire was manufactured. Using this information, you can monitor the age of your tires. The older the tires are, the higher chance that the tire has lost some of its original performance. If you are worried about the performance of your older motorcycle tires, it is generally accepted that motorcycle tires are “good for” approximately 5 years from date of install and 8 + years from the date code in ideal conditions. When inspecting your tires adding some of your own common sense is key, Motorcycles are cared for and stored in many different forms.
How should Motorcycle tires be stored?
The conditions that your bike is stored in can reduce the life span and performance of your tires. Indoor temperature-controlled spaces would be considered Ideal storage conditions for motorcycle tires. Something that many riders do not know, is that concreate surfaces can leech the moisture from tires, essentially contributing to aging the tires faster. Fluctuating temperatures and exposure to direct sun light will harden rubber compounds, making the rubber more brittle causing the tire to ware prematurely, crack and decrease traction. Tires that are stored correctly can have a lengthy shelf life and should cause little concern. However even when stored correctly, tires are one of the most important components on your motorcycle and deserve your attention regularly.
What are signs of an old tire?
Some signs that a tire will need to be replaced are easier to spot than others. If any cracks, commonly referred to as weather cracks, form in the tread or along the carcass of the tire, you should replace it immediately. Weather cracks will not pass Motor Vehicle Inspections and mean the tire is at increased risk of failure. The Cracks form when the rubber dries out from age and oxidation. Other signs of old tires could be; decreased traction, uneven or unusually fast tire ware and flat spots/becoming out of round. Motorcycles that are better maintained have tires that last longer and defects from age are more likely to be spotted before causing failure.
(Dry/Weather Cracked Motorcycle tires shown above)
Conclusion:
Modern Motorcycle tires have rubber compounds and tread designs that offer better performance and wear longer than ever before. But…These traits fade over time and it is important to monitor the age of the tires using the date code stamped on the side wall. Not everybody has a heated garage to keep their bike in, so each situation is different and must be treated as such. This advice is to be used as a guideline. Ultimately it is up to you decide when your tires need to be replaced. Of course, if you are unsure of the condition of your tires consult an experienced mechanic at your local moto shop.
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Prep and Body:
Storing your motorcycle for an extended period of time is not as simple as throwing a cover on your bike and waiting for the snow to melt. The procedure takes a little time and planning to save you money in the long run, and to keep your machine in perfect running order. One step that is often overlooked is to give the bike a good wash and wax. The reason this is important is to get the last of the season’s road grime and bugs washed off. This will keep the bike looking its best and make it much easier to clean next spring. Washing the bike is also a great way to inspect it for broken or warn components that may need to be addressed before the next riding season.
While washing your bike, be sure not to neglect the chain. Clean the chain with a good chain cleaner that is safe for O-rings, scrub with a steel or hard bristle brush, and rinse. Once your bike is clean and dry, re-lubricate your chain to keep it from rusting during storage. It is also a great idea to take some WD-40 or general purpose lubricant to lubricate any moving parts such as leavers and cables to keep them from becoming stiff or seized over winter. The same can also be done for any bare steel surfaces and components that could be prone to rust and oxidation.
Oil:
An oil and filter change before storage is highly recommended for your motorcycle. Immediately before changing your oil and filter, take the bike for a short ride, running through all the gears to stir up any dirt and debris. Dirt and debris in the oil is caused by leftover carbon and wearing parts during combustion. Leaving the old oil in the bike for an extended period of time will cause any of the unwanted debris that is suspended in the oil to settle in the bottom of your motor. This is something we want to avoid, and the easiest way to do so is with new oil and a new filter.
Fuel:
Fuel stabilization is an easy step that, when overlooked, can cause the bike to not start or not run correctly in the spring. It is especially important for carbureted machines, as the fuel in the carb can evaporate and leave residue, blocking jets and fuel passageways. Carburetor cleaning can be time consuming and costly depending on the make and model of the machine. Fuel purchased from your local service station has a shelf life of approximately 30 days before it starts to break down. Ideally, before storing your machine, fill the tank with premium fuel (longer shelf life) and add fuel stabilizer. If this step is done at home using a fuel jug, be sure to start the engine and let the machine run long enough to get the stabilizer through the entire fuel system.
Battery:
Motorcycle batteries must be stored correctly during winterization or there is a high probability that you will be replacing it every 1-2 seasons. One of the biggest mistakes when storing a battery is leaving a trickle charger on the battery continuously for the entire storage period. This can be as bad as, or worse than, leaving the battery in the bike untouched for several months. The exception to this would be leaving the battery on a “Smart charger,” which will not overcharge the battery. Ideal conditions for battery storage would be to remove it from the bike and place it in a warm and dry area with a trickle charge 1-2 times a month, or connect it to a smart charger.
Tires and Suspension:
Once you have your bike ready for storage it is time to tuck the bike into your garage, basement or shed. The best possible scenario would be to have the bike off the ground on front and rear stands. The benefit of having the bike on stands and not sitting on the ground is that if your tires leak down or go flat during the winter, they will not develop flat spots from sitting for several months. Another benefit to having the bike on stands is that the suspension will be fully extended, keeping some of the pressure off your seals while the bike is not in use. If stands are not an option, check your air pressure before storage and continue to monitor the pressure over winter.
Conclusion:
Winterization is probably one of the least appealing chores related to moto, but a little bit of time and preparation before storage can save you more time and money come spring. We all know that on the first warm days of spring you want to get out and blow the dust off. Don’t let a little laziness hold you back from getting back on the road. We know not everyone has a climate-controlled garage with ideal storage conditions, but with some of these storage tips you can make whatever you have work.
Written by HFX Motorsports Fun Expert, Brett Vanderkooi
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Intro to Motorcycle Tires
The most general or basic break down of motorcycle tires is into categories of the original intended use of the machine (i.e. super sport, sport touring, cruiser, dual sport and scooter). Each tire manufacturer will most often offer 3 or more options in each category consisting of an entry level/economy tire, mid-level tire, and a high performance or high mileage tire. What this means is that when shopping for replacement tires, start by looking in the category your machine is designed for. This being said, some bikes pull double duty and may cross between categories, in which case you would be looking for a tire for what you use the bike most.
When buying replacement tires for your motorcycle cycle it is strongly recommended that you stay with the manufacturers original size, speed and load ratings. This is because the motorcycle manufacturer has spent countless hours and resources designing a machine that handles precisely and confidently with particular tires. Here at HFX Motorsports we respect the fact that many people customize and modify their motorcycles, and may have to consider different tire options to fit the customer’s build. When ordering tires outside of the recommended options, we can help to explain the differences in tires and help to choose something safe that suits your needs.
Reading M/C Tires
All of the information you need to know about the type, size, load rating, speed rating, direction of travel, date code, and intended position (front or rear) are molded on the side of all motorcycle tires.
Using the diagram shown above we can see the tire size is 180/55ZR-17. The number 180 is the width of the tire in mm and 55 is a ratio of the side wall height of the tire. This means the sidewall height is 55% of the width or approx. 99mm. The last number in a tire size sequence is the size of the rim the tire fits in inches. Other designations you will notice in the size of this tire is the Z, which is the speed rating of the tire. Please note that the speed rating is not always located in the size of the tire but rather could be located with the load rating.
The R in the tire size is to specify the tire’s construction as radial, this can be replaced with a B for a bias construction or no letter which is also bias-ply construction. Motorcycle tires will also indicate the position of the tire whether front or rear, and a direction arrow for the direction of rotation. Other indications you will notice is a number for the load rating, tube type or tubeless, and the date code indicating the year and week the tire was manufactured 0417.
Tire Inspection
Knowing the difference between motorcycle tires is important, but almost equally as important as knowing how to inspect and maintain motorcycle tires. Old and worn motorcycle tires will handle differently than new tires, potentially putting you at risk of tire failure, reduced traction or poor handling characteristics. Typically every 2 or 3 rides you should check and inspect your tires as the condition of a tire can change relatively quickly. The things you will want to check when inspecting your tires are air pressure, weather cracks, uneven tread ware, punctures or damage, and tread depth. The recommended air pressure is typically located on the swing arm of the machine and it is a good idea to stick close to this as it will keep your tires from prematurely waring. Another thing to note is that the legal limit for minimum tread depth is 2/32. A tread depth gauge can be found at most auto parts stores for a few dollars. Many tires will also have a ware bar in between the treads, and once the tire has worn even with the ware bar, it is time for a replacement.
Conclusion
With a little common sense and few minutes of your time, you can ride in confidence knowing that the tires under you will get you where you need to go safely. Inspecting tires is a quick and simple process that shouldn’t be ignored. If you are still unsure about the tires on your machine, go to or call your trusted local shop for a second opinion. Most shops will have tips on what to look for in regards to tires and would be happy to answer any questions you may have. Replacing tires can get overwhelming with so many options and brands available. This is when local shops similar to our own should be used as an important resource. We can make recommendations on a higher mileage tire and what kind of trade-offs to expect, or we could recommend a tire that offers more grip and performance based on your needs.
Brett Vanderkooi - Fun Expert, HFX Motorsports
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What are Radial Tires?
Radial tires are constructed using cords that extend from bead to bead at 90 degree angles to the center of the tire. The ply cords are parallel to each other, and are combined with steel belts to help stabilize the tire and reduce wear.
The advantages of this type of tire construction are improved handling, smoother ride, easier steering, lower rolling resistance, improved tread life (almost 50% more in some cases) and slight fuel savings. These tires have seen an increase in popularity with ATV/UTV manufacturers and owners because radial tires offer the smoothest ride and the best handling at high speeds. The biggest disadvantage to radial tires is that they cost more to produce, meaning they also cost more to purchase. Despite being more expensive upfront, they do last longer and this can offset the cost with longer life.
What are Bias-ply Tires?
Bias-ply tires are the oldest type of ATV tire and for many years they were the only option available to consumers. These tires are constructed using ply cords that run diagonally from bead to bead with the next ply being laid over top in the opposite direction. This creates a crisscross pattern of the cords, and it is from this type of tire that we have a ply rating of a ATV/UTV tires. Originally the ply rating was the actual number of plies that were bonded together to construct the carcass of the tire. Today this is not the case, and tires are given a ply rating based on the strength and construction of the tire. New materials used to construct tires are now much better, meaning manufacturers do not need to use as many plies. Most modern 6-ply tires are not actually 6-plies, but are typically either 2 or 3 ply.
The advantage of a Bias-ply design is that it’s a tire where the tread and side wall share the same ply cords. What this means is that entire tire body of the tire is able to flex for more conformity of the tire to rough terrain, better clean out in mud, and better traction on rocky surfaces. This type of tire offers the best performance in extreme off-road conditions such as rock crawling and deep mud riding. Even though the ability for the tire to flex in rough conditions is considered an advantage, it would also be considered a disadvantage for high speed handling and aggressive trail riders. The flex of these tires causes increased rolling resistance, uneven or premature tread ware, and less control at high speed.
Conclusion:
Bias-ply and Radial tires offer different characteristics that perform better in different kinds of terrain. This is why it is important to consider the conditions you most often encounter, as well as what your machine is designed to do. Your choice of tire can either positively or negatively affect your UTV or ATV’s handling and capability. So if you’re looking for a tire on a budget or something that has good clean out in mud, tough construction, and good traction in the rough stuff then Bias-ply tires will work just great. If you’re an aggressive speed freak, want the best overall handling, the smoothest ride, and longest tread life then you should be looking for a good radial tire. There is no bad type of ATV/UTV tire construction as it all comes down to your application and off road preferences.
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Order your scratchers today online! Free shipping on Canadian Orders over $99*
Ice Scratchers have become a necessary add on accessory for many snowmobilers as cheap insurance to keep their machine running cool in low snow conditions and increase hyfax lifespan. They have traditionally been used by mountain riders on the way to their favourite honey hole when snow conditions are poor at the bottom of the mountain. They are now becoming popular with trail riders who encounter hard packed and icy conditions causing their machines to overheat among other issues.
What are Ice scratchers?
Ice Scratchers are a small spring tine or cable with a hardened steel tip that is specifically designed to drag across (scratch) the surface of an icy lake, plowed road or hard packed trail as your snowmobile drives. There are various designs – most are aftermarket and some are an OEM add on accessory, but all serve the same purpose: to create snow dust for cooling and/or lubrication for the track and slides.
Spring Scratchers
There are two main types of snowmobile ice scratchers, Spring tine and cable. Spring tine is the most effective for cooling and lubrication because this style of scratcher applies down pressure on the snow and ice, resulting in more snow dust for the machine. However, there is one major down side to this type: because of their design you cannot use reverse without first stopping to put the scratcher up into its holder. If you try to back up with them down it is very likely that they will get caught up and bend beyond repair.
Cable Scratchers
Cable scratchers are a short and flexible metal cable with replaceable steel tips that drag across hard packed snow and ice surfaces to create snow dust. These scratchers, although a little less effective at creating snow dust, are often the scratcher of choice for most trail riders. This is because the flexible cable allows you to reverse the machine without causing damage to the scratcher. They also do not wear as quickly crossing roads or in gas station parking lots, as they do not apply down pressure. One down side to this type of scratcher is that depending on their location, they can chip the paint on your rails as they drag alongside the skid. For old machines this may not be a bother to you, but is something to consider with a new machine and powder coated rails.
When Do You Need Scratchers?
Ice scratchers are most often needed in late winter and early spring as trails begin to harden with higher daytime temperatures and refreezing during night. Spring snowmobiling can become spotty in open areas. Scratchers will allow you to cross low snow or brief no-snow areas, as they will build snow up in the track of your machine allowing you to travel longer without stopping to cool the engine. They are also a great help if you encounter a plowed woods road allowing you to safely travel to the next section of trail. Many riders find scratchers especially helpful if your area encountered a short mid-winter thaw until more fresh snow has fallen. Machines that are studded may not require the use of scratchers as often because the studs penetrate icy trails creating the snow-dust required to cool the machine. On the other hand, any snowmobile with a 1 ¾ or larger lug track will require scratchers much more often while trail riding as they do not pick as much snow up for lubrication and cooling.
Conclusion
Snowmobile ice scratchers are a very important accessory for many snowmobilers to keep their machine from over-heating and to keep lubrication in the skid. They are good peace of mind as today’s trails cover large areas and many levels of elevation. This means that during a full day of riding, you may encounter various snow conditions throughout your trip. Many scratchers flip up into a holder or sit on the skid rail when not needed, so you will always be prepared when the snow gets low.
Order your scratchers today online! Free shipping on Canadian Orders over $99*
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This was my answer and I thought I that I would share it on our blog as well!
Scott Redden It is definitely doable to start on a 600 super sport bike, but maybe not the fastest way to learn or the safest way to learn to ride. There are a couple things you have to be honest with yourself about, to be able to make it through the learning curve without going strait off a corner, pun intended, haha.
If you can respect the fact that just about any 600 can out perform most supercars that cost 10 or 20 times as much, and keep that in mind when you are twisting the throttle, you will likely be ok. The problem with new riders starting on 600's or lager get into is the fact that the bikes will accelerate so fast and run along at 120km an hour on a back road but it will feel like 70km. This is faster than the skill level for most new riders to handle. So what happens is a new rider gives that bike a big twist of throttle and comes up to a corner and they "think" they are going too fast to make the corner and they end up driving strait off without even trying to turn. Or they do try to turn, but from the lack of experience, they over do the force required for the turn and they loose the front end. Another scenario is that they come out of a corner without applying smooth quick power and spin up the back and go for a ride over the bars.
These are the questions to ask yourself if it is smart to start on a supersport bike.
1. Can you respect the power and resist the temptation to rider over your skill level?
2. Can you confidently say you are not intimidated by the power and handling? After all, these bikes are race bikes with headlights.
3. Can you resist "trying" to keep up with the group when they are riding beyond your skill level?
4. Can you force your brain in a fight or flight situation (coming into a corner too hot) to look where you want to go, STAY OFF THE BRAKES and turn the bike?
If you answer yes to all of the questions above, than yes, I think some people can start on a supersport bike and be ok.
Now, if you want to learn to ride and have your skill level come up faster, I would recommend starting on something with less HP. By doing this, you are taking a lot of the risk away because the bike is more forgiving of new rider mistakes. This is because of the fact that it does not have enough power to spin up the rear tire, or go from 0-60 in 3 seconds. This will lead you to learn faster because you will be more comfortable on the bike and if your more comfortable you will increase your skill level faster than the guy or girl nervous as hell strapped to their 600 rocket.
The bike you buy now does not have to be your forever bike. They are easily bought and sold, so don't put too much pressure on yourself when buying something that might not be as "cool" as the race bike with headlights. It will be a lot more cool not to be the one in the ditch or stuffed into the back of a stopped car. I can assure you that!
Hope this helps some new riders thinking of a new bike. In the end all that matters is that "your knees are in the breeze." If I can help anyone with answering any questions about this, feel free to contact me through dm in messenger.
Cheers!
Scott Redden HFX Motorsports (yes that is me in the picture, photo props to Canadian Superbike photographer, Canadian Superbike nationals AMP August 2007.)
Join us, the Fun Experts at HXF Motorsports for our next Customer Appreciation Day, this Saturday June 9th from 9:00am - 2:00pm! We'll have great sales, great giveaways, pulled pork and GREAT COMPANY! 👌
Come eat, drink, meet new riders and check out our sponsored riders for 2018. They will be there with their race bikes (both street and MX) ready to fill you in on racing and how you can get involved.
And as always, you can count on friendly customer service and great in store specials. Looking forward to seeing you there!
Our new cars are so reliable, need so little maintenance, and go for such long periods of time before they need any work done, when some people buy bikes, they expect the same performance or long maintenance scheduled from a motorcycle as they do a new car.
Most of the new motorcycles are very, very reliable. You don't have to worry about a lot of things, but there are more things that you have to pay attention to, to keep your bike in good working condition, and to keep up on the maintenance.
A chain comes in a few different formats. For example, one without o-rings, which are little rubber rings that go between the metal chain plates to help keep grease in, and dirt and water out. On most street bikes, that's what you're going to find is an o-ring chain.
It's important to keep the chain well lubed. A rule of thumb that I've always gone by is with every second tank of fuel, I would give it a little spray or chain wax/lube, wipe it down to get all the old gunk off, and then give it another little spray. I usually do this at the end of my ride when the chain is warm because when it cools it's going to suck all that lubrication into the chain. If you try to grease or put chain wax on a cold chain, a lot of it won't sink in, and a lot of it can fling off.
If you’re watching the video, you’ll see our Motorcycle Technician, Jeremy, with a bike on the stand — he’s putting a new set of plastics on. This is a very typical setup for most sportbike chains. They're very easy to adjust, and it's important to keep your chain adjusted. When it's new, a chain will naturally stretch from just using the power of the bike. So that's the point where you're probably going to want to keep an eye on it the most.
A too-loose chain, if it's loose enough, it can actually get on top of the sprocket and spin. It would have to be incredibly loose to do this but it can happen. Another thing a loose chain will do is you'll have a lot of slop in the throttle. So, you'll go to apply throttle, and that looseness, you'll feel that disconnect from your throttle to the rear wheel as the front sprocket takes up that slack.
On the flip side, if a chain is too tight it will actually bind up your suspension. So, what'll happen, as your wheel tries to travel up through the suspension, the chain will actually inhibit that. All that tension, instead of being on your spring and on your shock, will actually be taken up by the chain. It throws the handling off for the motorcycle completely and puts a lot of unessasary tension on the chain. This can cause the chain to stretch even more and faster.
In our shop, Jeremy sees neglected chains come in on a regular basis. He says that a lot of them come in dirty, loose, and with zero lube on them. Very rarely, he’ll get one that's too tight because people are neglecting them more often than not. They get looser over time and many bike owners that Jeremy talks to don’t even realize their chain is something they can clean. If you don’t take the old grease off the chain, you’re just adding new grease on top of old dirty grease. There’s no way for the new grease to get onto the chain, so you’re just adding to the problem if you don’t clean it.
This is a nice little brush that gets a lot of miles in our shop. It's best to do it around the rear sprocket — it just makes it easier to control without the chain being wobbly down below.
Get your bike up in the air with some sort of a lift, or maybe even a snap jack. We do sell these nice lifts here at the shop — they’re very convenient if you've got a bike with a chain. It's also easier to check the oil like that, adjust the chain, and to clean the bike. It keeps everything nice and stable.
Your other option for a brush comes in our chain clean canisters, which are fantastic. So, if you don't want to spring the extra dollars for a grunge brush, you can use the Tirox Chain Cleaner. It's kerosene-based product — basically kerosene in a can with some different additives. They package it in a spray can with a neat little brush, which makes it super easy to use.
You open it up and spin it onto your chain. You soak it nicely with the chain clean, rub it back and forth, and it'll really get all that gunk off. It’s a great little kit, and people seem to use it quite a lot.
In the shop, Jeremy gets shocked reviews from every bike owner he uses this with. It takes an old chain that looks like it needs to be replaced and makes it look brand new. Once you wipe off all the gunk, you can apply a good, high-quality chain lube or wax.
We usually wipe off all the gunk and then use soap and dish detergent to really clean up a chain. Then, you dry it — compressed air works best. It gets all the soap, water, and whatever remnants are left in there. Then, it’s a nice coat of chain lube or wax
If the bike was running and you tried to do work on the chain, anything could happen. You could lose a finger or run someone over.
In your manual, it will give you a measurement for chain tension — and a lot of manuals are online now. After you adjust your chain enough, you'll know whether it's too tight or too loose. You’ll get accustomed to the feel, and when it's adjusted properly, you'll know. You can tell because you'll have an instant connection between the throttle and the rear wheel. You won't feel that slop if it's too loose, and your chain won't be as noisy, either — that’s because it's not moving and growing as you're traveling down the road.
You're going to want to loosen your axle. You're going to want to loosen your locknut, and then you use your adjuster bolts to basically move that rear axle in and out. And, obviously, tighten it or loosen it.
So, what can be frustrating though, you will get the chain in the right adjustment and then go to tighten the rear axle nut and the chain will tighten on you. This is because hen you go to tighten your axle, it wants to spin the rear wheel/axle away from the front sproket, and it will tighten the chain up.
There are a few little cheats, too, that I used to do when I was racing. A lot of times you're changing wheels and you're by yourself, and sometimes you're changing wheels between races in a hurry and it seems you are always in race leathers. haha
So, a trick that I have used to keep the chain in the right tension as you tighten the axle nut, is that you put a wrench in between your chain and the top of your rear sprocket and you just spin it backwards. You don't have to put a ton of tension on it, but you just spin it back to lock that chain at exactly the tension you want. You tighten up your axle bolt, and then when you roll it ahead and remove wrench, you'll still have the exact amount of free play.
Most bikes will have a sticker somewhere on the chain guard or near it that will tell you the recommend measurement for chain tension.
Another thing is that when you're adjusting your chain, remember that you've got your adjuster nut on both side of the axle. Whatever you're doing to one side, you want to do on the other side, because that's going to control the alignment of your rear wheel.
I used to count the threads on the adjuster nut. Some people will measure from the axle to a fixed point on the motorcycle. Another thing I was shown at the racetrack is that if you pull the tension out of the bottom of your chain and look up the rear sprocket, (up your chain — use it like a gun sight) you'll be able to tell if that rear sprocket is offset, even the slightest little bit.
You press down or up on the bottom run of the chain, to take all the tension out of that chain, and then you want to look up the chain from the back of the rear sprocket and see that it’s straight as a pin. If your rear sprocket is misaligned with your front sprocket, your chain is going to be running off to one side and you will be able to see it using this method. If your rear axle is not aligned with the front sprocket the chain and the tire will be running off at an angle and this will wear out a chain and tire very quickly.
If you keep your chain adjusted and lubed, it'll last so much longer. We've seen customers purchase a new chain and sprocket from us, and unfortunately never grease or adjusted it, and literally wear it out in one season of riding. Then they’re upset because a brand new chain shouldn’t be like that. They just didn’t realize it required maintenance to stay in good shape. You’ve got to keep them adjusted and lubed, and realize that there's no point in putting good, new lube on top of old, dirty lube.
So the week is going faster than I had hoped but to keep up with my info on all things motorcycle I thought I would do a write up on changing your oil on a motorcycle instead of doing a video this week.
Changing your oil is one of the most important things to do to keep your bike is good working condition. The oil in the engine and transmission is the only thing that is preventing metal on metal contact with the parts in your engine and trans. The oil provides a layer between those parts. The cleaner the oil the better the protection.
Note: grab your owners manual. Most are available online now for free.
-1, First thing, you need new oil, filter and crush washer. I won't go into the debate on whether to use synthetic or mineral oil or what brand to use. The most important thing is to make sure you use a quality brand that is MADE FOR MOTORCYCLES. Car oil is not made to handle the motorcycle's wet clutch. My personal opinion is I like and use synthetic oil, it is not much more and I feel that it just does a better job and it is the newest technology. I don't think any of us listen to 8 tracks or tapes anymore because they are "good enough or cheaper"
-2, Start with either taking your bike for a ride or let it run long enough to get the engine and its oil up to operating temperature. This way it will mix up all the gunk that might have settled at the bottom of the case and it will pour out easier. Warming it up will leave you with a "cleaner" case and most of the oil and or the gunk will come out when you drain it.
-3, Find the drain bolt and oil filter, (owner's manual is your friend) On some bikes this is very easy ie no fairings, but on some this can be a little tough and you might have to remove some fairings. Most bikes will have a 17mm bolt under the engine/trans, usually in the middle somewhere. The oil filter usually will be up front on the vertical pointing toward the front wheel. It will look like a large black coffee cup without the handle. Now to get the filter off. Hopefully the last person to change the oil didn't go ape and tighten the filter to the point that it won't come off easily. There are filter wrenches and sockets and all kinds of tools to help with this, they are inexpensive and if you plan to do your own oil changes it is a good idea to pick one up for yourself. Shameless plug, we sell K&N filters and stock all their part numbers, they have a 17mm nut molded into the end of their filters so all you need to get it off is the same 17mm socket you used to remove the drain bolt, (smart & very easy!). Also for all you racers or track day guys there is a small hole in nut on the filter that you can safety wire the filter. (also easy and smart). Remove the drain bolt (righty tighty, lefty loosy) and you will be upside down so make sure you are pushing or pulling in the correct direction, some case can be softer metal and you don't want to strip the threads. Drain your oil and take your filter off. We can take your old oil and old oil filter for free at the shop so you don't have to burn it in the campfire out back. (you know you do). Note on Harley Davidson's: Harley uses two cases, one for the engine and one for the transmission, so you have to drain the oil from separate cases and there will be two drain bolts and two fill caps. Harley also uses primary drive oil in another case. We call this the three whole oil change. Most oil manufactures state that you can use the same oil for all three, some manufactures have different bottles/oil mixes for the three.
-4 Install your new oil filter and put the drain plug back in. Fill your new filter with oil so when your start the bike there is no chance of the engine starving for oil because of waiting for the filter to fill before it can pump oil. Before you install the new filter, make sure that the rubber o-ring seal from the old filter came off the engine when you removed it and is not still stuck to the engine case. Install your new crush washer on your drain plug. We include this for free when you buy your oil and filter from us. I have used crush washers more than once without problem but the idea is that they mushroom/crush out a little bit when you tighten the drain bolt to make a really good seal to the case. So it is recommended not to reuse them. Now when you install the drain bolt it is best to use the manufacture torque specs. If you don't have a torque wrench and want to do you own work you should get one. You can get away without it but go easy because like I said above some engine cases can be soft metal and it is easy to strip this.
-5 So now that everything is closed up, you are ready to add your new oil. Bikes can take different amounts of oil and they have different ways to check the oil. Some have dip sticks, and some dip sticks you have to screw in to get the right reading some you do not, a lot of bikes have windows that show the oil level. Some bikes you can check the oil level on the kick stand, some you have to put them strait/upright. Again your manual is your friend. You can find the correct amount of oil for your engine in your manual. The manual usually list two amounts. One if you did change the filter ie more, and one if you didn't change the filter ie less. Sometimes you can get away with not changing the filter between oil changes, but I feel why bother because the filter is around $20 to protect a $5000 motor. When I was racing I used to only change the filter every second oil change but I was changing the oil every race round weekend. (Probably a little excessive but made me feel good. haha). Pour in your oil up to the correct reading either on the dip stick or the window. Close up the fill pug and start the bike, this will ensure the oil fills the rest of the filter from some of the oil that drained out when you put it on. It will pump the oil all though the engine and trans. You only need to let it run a couple of minutes. Then let is set for 5-10 minutes for the oil to settle back down in the case and check it again, it is normal to have to add a little bit more oil to top it up. You should have a look at the oil filter and drain bolt just to be sure nothing is leaking. Make sure your filler cap is tight.
-6 Wipe as much oil up, that ran out over everything including the head pipes. Be careful to make sure you didn't get any oil on the tires. Head out for a ride, it will be normal to get a little bit of smoke from the oil being burnt off where you dripped it on the head pipes and cases. On your first stop, take a minute and have a look at the filter and drain bolt again just to make sure everything is good and not leaking. Have a look at the oil level again as well, top up at home if you need to.
-7 Go ride and have fun until the next oil change.
I hope this helps some people that would like to do their own oil changes. It is not hard and nothing to be intimidated about. Just a little prep and education goes a long way. Or if your like me and don't like making a mess in your garage or getting covered in oil, drop it off at the shop and we can do it for you. You keep you hands clean.
Any question or anything I left out let me know in the comments
Cheers
Scott Redden
Most ATVs, Side by Sides and Snowmobiles today are driven by a CVT transmission and use a CVT belt to transmit power to the wheels or track. With the popularity of Side by Sides, we see the sales of replacement CVT belts going up. With the added power and weight of a Side by Side, it puts a lot more force on the CVT belt which can (and will) destroy belts.
This is new to some people coming from ATVs. Most of us have driven an ATV for years without even thinking about the belt. Today’s high powered Side by Sides seem to go through belts a lot like a high-powered snowmobile. Ask any long-time Snowmobiler if they have ever dug out little chucks of belt and installed a new belt trail side in the freezing cold and I bet the answer will be “many times.”
There are however some tips to help you keep your CVT belt in good shape and running along happily;
Before the belt goes on, you should wash it in warm soapy water. You should also clean your clutch sheaves with a scotch bite pad and alcohol or acetone. This will remove old belt residue or glazing. It is ok to ruff up the clutch face with the scotch bite pad. This helps the clutch grip the belt. I also like to take compressed air and blow out both clutches to get rid of any dust or dirt.
One of the most important things you must do with a new CVT belt is break it in, similar to breaking in a new engine. This allows the belt to mate or match the CVT clutch sheaves. For the new belt break in, the rule of thumb is to take it easy. You should use no more than ½ or ¾ throttle for the first 30 miles or 50kms. Also, you should heat cycle the belt a couple of times within that first 30 miles 50km. It is a good idea to stop and let the belt cool after about 20 minutes. What your trying to do is allow the belt to come up to operating temperature slowly and then allow it to cool down again.
After the belt is broke in it is still a good idea to take it easy for the first 3 miles (5km or so) to let the belt warm up slowly every time you ride. This also helps the engine and other parts on your vehicle warm up slowly and will prolong the use of your toy. We often see customers destroy a new belt in their first ride just because they didn’t take the time to break it in properly. With the cost of new belts these days, that really sucks!
We sell all the aftermarket belts at our shop, Halifax Motorsports in Goodwood, NS. One brand that we have been using (and our customers are having a lot of good experiences with) is the Gates brand of belts. They offer power sport belts in two types, G-Force and C-12.
The G-Force is a good replacement belt, but, if you are running anything in the higher horse power range or a big powerful side by side, for a little bit more money you should go with the C-12 belt.
The C-12 is reinforced with carbon tensile cord and Aramid (Kevlar) fibre, which adds a lot of strength to the belt. I have successfully run the C-12 belts on both our 800cc shop snowmobiles and a four-place side by side for 3 years with the same mileage you can get out of an OEM belt at 2/3’s the price.
Currently the price for a Gates G-force belt is in the $80-$100 price range and the C-12 is $130-$150 price range. We also have a full stock of belts at the shop.
It is always a good idea to carry a spare on and the tools to change it! So pick yourself up an extra one today and enjoy the trails this winter!